Top 10: The Not So Basic Basics of Adding a Horse to Your Home

Whether a long-term horse owner or horse lover, it never hurts to remember the basics when it comes to making sure your horse’s needs are met. Too, we’ve had more than a few people come to us contemplating horse ownership that want a primer of sorts of what they need to consider before bringing a horse home. You asked? We answered. Here’s our Top 10: The Not So Basic Basics of Adding a Horse to Your Home.

The Kitchen Cabinet (aka Your “Go To” Experts). Horse care or ownership is a big responsibility. And no one person has all the answers. The very first thing you want to make sure you have in place is a well-stocked cupboard. What we mean by this is that you have a vet, farrier, and feed person you can trust, who are accessible and understand your needs and circumstances. We also recommend picking one or two people in your area, whether friend(s) or not, that you can call on for advice. Any more than that and you’ll have too many cooks in your kitchen.
Water. Make sure your horse has clean water at all times. A hydrated horse is a healthy horse. Not complicated.
Feed. Your horse needs plenty of good, quality hay. This is not the area to save a few bucks. Hay that has mold, dust, debris or looks like it housed any number of critters or bugs is not good for your horse. How much hay your horse needs depends on his lifestyle. The rule of thumb is that most horses need about half a bale of hay per day or 2% of total body weight. Get to know your feed person, who can suggest the right amount of hay for your horse and if and when you should grain your horse. Remember, all hay is not created equal. Alfalfa hay is much richer than grass so alfalfa should be fed sparingly. Too, when the hay is cut makes a difference. Early crops tend to have more stems or flowers and are not as easy for your horse to chew and digest. Use your eyes and your common sense and don’t be afraid to cut into a bail on delivery to make sure you like what you see.
Pass the Salt. Horses need salt. The harder a horse is worked, or the hotter the climate, the more salt he needs. Again, get to know your feed person because most grains have salt added. Salt blocks or licks are like candy and most horses will buzz through them in no time, which can mean they are taking in more salt than they actually need. It’s not uncommon to add regular table salt to a horse’s feed, since a horse that is worked regularly could need up to four teaspoons of salt a day. Don’t add salt to the grain, however, without first talking to your vet.
Supplements. Never supplement your horse without talking to your team first, with your vet having the last word. This includes giving your horse a mineral block, which is all the rage these days.
Bug Maintenance - Internal. There are all kinds of bugs (internal and external) that need to be dealt with regularly. Parasite control is extremely important. Work with your vet to discuss the best worming program for you, whether a daily or periodic program. A daily program is usually about twice the investment annually, but kills larvae your horse may get in his mouth before they can penetrate body tissue. A periodic, or purge program, kills the adult worms before they can lay eggs in your horse’s intestines. Although a daily program may sound better, consider carefully your ability to really stick to a daily schedule. It’s a major commitment that must be met. If you elect daily worming, you’ll need to make sure you also medicate for bots, tapeworms and ancysted cyathostomes typically twice a year. For this reason, many prefer a purge program where the appropriate medications for these issues can be administered jointly and most often by a vet.
Bug Maintenance – External. Horses produce waste. Waste attracts bugs, especially flies. Any barn or pasture will need a good fly containment program. We’re big fans of fly predators. Fly predators are gnat-sized insects that will not bite humans or animals, but are the natural enemy of all manure breeding pest flies. They destroy flies at the maggot and pupa stages. These predators have absolutely zero affect on humans or animals. For many, predators are a preferred means of fly control as no chemical poisons are introduced into the environment, which can affect non-target animals such as horses, birds, “good” insects, and other animals. That said, keeping it real, we have our fly sprays and other chemical products we use, but it’s nice if we can keep it to a minimum whenever possible.
The Great Outdoors. Your horse needs to stretch, run and play on his own terms. This doesn’t happen under saddle. Let your horse run, whether in a well-groomed pasture or turn out paddock. It helps clear their lungs of dust and the ammonia from waste that accumulates in even the best kept stalls. A horse that is turned out regularly is far less likely to have behavioral problems. Make sure your pastures and paddocks have maintained, safe fencing and are free of debris and plants that can be toxic to your horse. That said, it’s impossible to know every weed or shrub that can hurt your horse. The good news is that horses will typically stay away from plants that are harmful to them. Either they don’t taste good, or your horse doesn’t feel well after a few nibbles. A few common natural poisons to your horse to watch out for include red maple trees, brake/eagle ferns, hemlock, ragwort, crazy week, rose laurel, yew and yellow star thistle.
Clean & Fresh. Keep your pasture and/or barn in tip top shape. Pick stalls daily if possible and do a thorough clean once a week. Use stall fresheners if ammonia fumes are strong, but don’t let masking products take the place of a little elbow grease. Ventilation is also important for cleanliness and your horse’s overall health. Open the windows and doors to keep the air moving. The cleaner the barn, the healthier the horse.
Develop A Routine. A horse is a big responsibility, but one that can be managed more easily with a good calendar and routine. Cleaning and feeding should happen at the same time every day whenever possible. That routine is as much for your scheduling as it is for the comfort of your horse. Schedule your vet for visits up to a year out for your maintenance program including dental checks. Put your feed person on a schedule for delivery or tell him or her to call you monthly for your order. Walk your pastures once a month. And, most importantly, schedule time with your horse for grooming and hands-on attention. The best way to know what’s going on with your horse is to regularly spend time with him. You’ll bond, but you’ll also know if his weight is up or down, his coat or hooves need attention or if he’s developed an injury.